Tuesday, 21 July 2015

Top 10 Sights of Istanbul

Hagia Sophia

Our top 10 things to do in Istanbul may not by yours but there is sure to be a similarity.

Old Istanbul a painting on the wall of the Grand Bazaar
1. Stroll around the historic part of Istanbul. This stroll would include visits to Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, the Hippodrome, Suleymaniye Mosque, the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar.

Bosphorus Ferry
2. The Istanbul ferries. Istanbul would not be the attraction it is without the Bosphorus, which divides Istanbul in two. The European side and the Asian side. Any ferry trip is an adventure but to take the day trip up the Bosphorus toward the Black Sea is a delight.

Princes Islands
3. A day trip to the Princes' Islands in the Sea of Marmara. Emy and took two trips to the Islands. There are no cars on the islands other than electrical vehicles so the islands are very quite. As it was summer we enjoyed our time swimming, strolling around and having a fish meal.

Istiklal Caddesi
4. A walk down Istiklal Caddesi from Taksim Square. Enjoy a carton of chestnuts as you stroll with the crowds passed the shops. The lower part of the street is very bohemian with numerous music shops and clothing fashion shops. A lot of graffiti adds to the bohemian atmosphere.

Whirling Dervishes
5. A show of the Whirling Dervishes. We watched a free show at a cafe just opposite the Blue Mosque.

Gulhane Park
6. A wander in the gardens of Gulhane Park. This garden offers shade and therefore, coolness from a hot afternoon. At the entrance just a few meters from the entrance to the Topkapi Palace there are vendors selling chestnuts or corn as well as bottled water. Groups of locals and visitors sit beside the fountain and the pool with feet in the water. Others sit on park benches or on the grass admiring the flowers. Beautiful butterflies fly from flower to flower. In the evening a cafe overlooks the Bosphorus and a coffee can be enjoyed with a view to die for.








The circumcision ceremony
7. A view of the Golden Horn from Pierre Loti cafe. This can be done by taking the bus or ferry or even by walking along the Golden Horn. Visit also Eyup Sultan Mosque where the circumcision ceremonies take place for Moslem boys aged about 10 years.

8. A walk across Galata Bridge and a visit to Galata Tower. Include a fish sandwich and hot cup of tea  at Karakoy.

9. A visit to Kadakoy on the Asian side of Istanbul to watch the sun set over the historic centre.

Walk besides the Bosphorus
10. A walk along side the Bosphorus. Go to Sariyer by ferry and walk some of the way back. The walkway is an absolutely beautiful walk and it goes on and on for kilometres. If it is a weekend many of the young boys are swimming and men are fishing along the route.



Saturday, 18 July 2015

A Day in the Life of David Pollock - 11 August 2014.

Selling Bottled Water
So what made this day so memorable. It would not have been if I had not taken so many photos. On the 11 August 2014 I sold bottled water from an open air stall outside a large shopping mall in Şişli, Istanbul. Business was brisk. Turkish people were a bit surprised that a foreigner, who could not speak their language, was selling water. Emy and I loved being in Istanbul and we actually considered staying on instead of returning to my job in Aqaba. How did it come to pass that I was selling water? Emy and I had met a Syrian fellow who had married a Turkish woman and it was while hanging out with them at their bottled water stand that I sold the water.

Tram on Istiklal Caddesi
After socialising with them for much of the day, Emy and took the bus to Taksim. In Taksim Square Emy loved being photographed with the flocks of pidgeons. After which we started to walk down Istiklal Caddesi (Avenue). We walked past the tram and street sellers selling corn and chestnuts. We so enjoyed eating chestnuts while we were in Istanbul. Istiklal Caddesi is the busiest street in Istanbul. It is a pedestrian only street apart for the tram some motorbikes and official vehicles such as
Police in Istiklal Caddesi 

the police. The police had a huge presence and I mean huge (see the photograph) I presume because of protests that had been taking place around Taksim Square. The upper part of Istiklal Caddesi (nearer Taksim Square) is less crowded than the lower part of Istiklal Caddesi.
The upper part of the street and in Taksim Square itself has many hotels and prestigious shops. As you walk down the street, downhill that is, an interesting church is passed on your left, many food shops including take away shawarma, chips, sandwiches, chocolate shops, ice-cream shops, and shops selling Turkish delight. Interesting also is the number of institutions for learning English.

Street food stall, corn and chestnuts

Shawarma take-away food

Learn English 
The further down the street you progressed the more bohemian it became. Buskers and street performers made for interesting entertainment. These buskers some times had such a crowd around them that the street became almost blocked. What I noticed in the walked towards the Galata Tower the smaller the shops and the more graffiti and posters more evident. What caught my eye was the increasing number of music shops.


Fish Sandwich
Finally we arrived in the Karaköy area where found food vendors at a place with small table and stools. So we decided to finished the day with a fish sandwich and a drink of Turkish tea. We hung around the area till after dark then crossed over the Galata Bridge and caught a ferry back to Kadaköy.




Galata Bridge
On my google +1 profile page under photos you can view as a slide show an expanded album of photos related to this post.



Friday, 17 July 2015

Fun in Kadıköy, Istanbul.



Sunset over the Blue Mosque.

One year ago Emy and I took a trip to Turkey leaving from Aqaba, Jordan. Turkish Airlines flew from Aqaba to Istanbul three times a week. The only place we went to in Turkey was Istanbul. For two weeks we stayed on the Asian side, Anatolia in the district of Kadıköy. The Eysan Hotel became home. The hotel was on the waterfront so we had the greatest of views over the Sea of Marmara, looking directly at a setting sun over the minarets of the Blue Mosque.The hotel is just 200 meters from the Ferry Terminal to Eminonu, a 20minute ferry trip across the Bosphorus. From Eminonu it is but a short walk to the Spice Bazaar, the Grand Bazaar, Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia. But I shall leave all this for another post. This post will be limited to Kadıköy, called Chalcedon back in the first centuries of the modern era.

The fruit market Kadıköy.
The Beatles Cafe.
There is so much to be seen in Kadıköy, but it is not a tourist trap. One of our enduring memories was the shock we had at the size of the fruit. The cherries and strawberries were huge. Kadıköy has a big fruit and vegetable, and fish market which was really interesting to walk around. Looking at the residential places above the shops I found the architecture so different, I liked the feeling of this place. Walking along the narrow streets, many of them pedestrians only, you come across cafes or restaurants with names such as 'The Beatles' or 'Woodstock'. We had the most fun in a speciality gadgets shop. The owner did not mind us having a good look around and taking some photographs. We found items to do magic with, masks, and some very funny toys. These can only be appreciated by including a few photographs. I had to laugh so much at the biker girl.

Emy pulling on a mask.

Start your engines boys.
1960's

Bad ass biker girl.

Some of the bars had interesting advertising as well. I liked the one shown in the photo. Buskers and political campaigning were common when out on an evening stroll. Some of the street music was fantastic and quite big crowds gathered taking videos and some dancing.

Statue of man with beer mug between the two windows.

Erdogan political campaign.



Thursday, 16 July 2015

Out and About in Aqaba, Jordan.


Public Beach, Aqaba


Aqaba and Eilat to the left.
As Aqaba comes into view having travelled from Amman on the Desert Highway it appears to be a large city. This is because the view is of both Aqaba and Eilat (in Palestine). In reality Aqaba is a small city and it is easy to get around. The location of both cities is on the Gulf of Aqaba, a part of the Red Sea. Emy and I lived in Aqaba for three years so if you wish to contact me with any queries I would pleased to help you.

What is fun about Aqaba?

  •  It is a place so easy to get around. A taxi to anywhere is no more than 1.50 JOD.
  •  It is warm for six months, hot, darn hot for the other six months.
  • Cafes are numerous and the coffee is good, really good.
  • Diving or snorkeling opportunities are extensive.
  • A stroll along the beach or coffee beside the beach is a different experience here in Aqaba.
  • Listen to live music, or watching a belly dancer, or karaoke.
  • Sunsets, oh yes, the sunsets are exquisite.
  • People, Jordanians want you to love their country.

So what were our experiences?
During the time we were in Aqaba our stand out experiences were:-


Sunset over the Sinai Peninsula

Sitting beside the beach sipping on a Turkish coffee with friends. The peaceful blue waters of the Gulf of Aqaba lapping on the beach. Watching the glass bottom boats disturb the silence as the pass playing music loudly, very loud. It was enjoyable listening to the falsetto voice of the bread seller and seeing the colourful clothes of the drinks seller. The fruity smell of the shisha smoke. Watching the sun go down over the Sinai Peninsula, a brilliant red fireball. Oh yes, from your seat you can look simultaneously at Egypt and (I only say) Palestine.


Smoking Shisha in Cafe
The very best coffee was enjoyed at Rakwet Kanaan. The mix of coffee beans used to serve a Turkish coffee was a taste to die for. The Egyptian waiters were ever so friendly, always welcoming with a smile and sometimes buying the coffee for us. These guys absolutely made our experience at Rakwet Kanaan memorable. This cafe is a true Palestinian experience, as there photographic displays of many of the most well know Palestinian artists, poets and writers.

Our visits to Berenice Beach Club were a delight. Most of my under water viewing was done while snorkeling here. Turtles, Lionfish, Parrotfish, Clown fish, and Butterfly fish along with beautiful hard corrals were amazing. Apart from lounge chairs on the beach there were also lounge chairs beside the pool. We knew a bus driver who always took us there and back for no cost. The days spent here will live in our memories forever.

Walking along side the public beach was noisy, what with children enjoying the water to the load music of the glass bottom boats, coming here was a true Jordanian experience, an experience not to be missed.


Live Music at Kempinski - dedicated to Billy Ontong
Often we visited the Kempinski Hotel to have a quiet drink and listen to a live band with friends David and Sue. It was such fun suggesting to Frank Cuddumbey, the leader of the group, the next tune to be played. So often we requested 'Baker Street' because we so enjoyed Billy Ontong, the sax player doing his solo part. Sue and David also introduced us to the Formosa Restaurant where just a few times we took part in a Karaoke evening. Emy was a natural.

Jordanians always sing out in the streets, "welcome to Jordan". Yes there were many special people that Emy and I met in Aqaba. The people where I worked and the people with whom we socialized made each day enjoyable. Emy thought so much of the expats Thursday Coffee Morning and we both think our Wednesday evening group the very best experience. Thank you all for your generosity, Nikki for giving us the Tala Bay experience, Glen and Kath for so much transport and 'The Rooftop Garden' and Nicole for your friendship along with humour and fun with Jerry and Becky. To everyone unnamed our photos of you will revive for us wonderful memories in Aqaba.






Wednesday, 15 July 2015

Globalisation is not what the traveller comes to see.




Amman and Aqaba in Jordan have high-rise buildings and people wear the ubiquitous jeans. Mercedes, BMW, and Ford motorcars fill the streets with traffic. Boeings and Airbus airplanes fly in the skies above and land at the International airports. We travellers use these planes and taxis to get around, but without a doubt we like to see people dressed differently and taste different food. We often travel to see differences in culture. So what makes Jordan different from lets say New Zealand or Australia or the UK.


Jordan in my mind is less politically correct and of course it is a country with a majority Muslim population. Visitors, family and friends, have said that Jordan was a delightful travel experience for them. What are some of the major differences?

One is the call to prayer, which I consider very melodious, as this can be heard five times a day, it is very much part of the Jordan traveller's experience. So of course is the mosque with its minarets.

Two is the cafe culture; men and women practise smoking shisha (unlike most Middle Eastern countries where only men smoke). Within that cafe culture is the differences to be found in coffee. I really liked the taste of the coffee in Jordan. Also the music is loud and different. Fairouz and Uum Kulthum are as popular today as they were a few decades ago.

Three, weddings are ever so different. As you walk about in your neighbourhood you find a street blocked to traffic by a marquee erected across the road, ah ha, a wedding. Sure enough at night there will be a celebratory party with fireworks and gunfire. There are pistols and machine guns in many homes. The celebration is accompanied with food, music and dancing. Only men celebrate in the marquee and women celebrate in the house. The next day, after the celebration or at night a convoy of cars and buses, all honking horns, travel to the bride's home to collect her. Then an even bigger, horn honking, convoy travels back to groom's house. In smaller towns guns are fired from the cars as this procession takes place. I felt honoured by a family who asked me to video the wedding of their eldest son. This wedding took place in Qadsiyya, a small town so I witnessed and videoed all that I have described.

Four, the meals and the way meals are served are different. Jordanian and Palestinian meals include mansaf and muqluba. Mansaf is always served, as a matter of custom, to guests. My preference is for muqluba. When meals are to be served, a plastic sheet is laid on the floor and salad bowls distributed. The main meal is served on a large tray. Everyone sits on the floor, generally crossed legged, and breaking bread take the food from the tray in the bread held by their fingers. Now day's spoons may be provided for guests.

Five, clothes. Most women wear a hijab or scarf over their heads. Some also wear an abaya which covers to the ankles or other longer garment. Men basically wear western clothes but you often see older men wear the Jordanian traditional head wear called a keffiyeh. I got really quite excited to see an old Mercedes Benz being driven by an old man wearing a keffiyeh.

There are many minor differences such as gas bombalas (bottles) distributed by a truck playing a distinctive tune. There are no mail deliveries so no junk mail and the few bills (electricity and water bills left on he meters, and internet invoices delivered by a text message). From time to time you might see the man selling drink. Also many men are employed as police and in the military and as in many countries they are armed.

As in any country the scenery is different so Jordan is worth visiting just to see the sights if that is all you are interested in. Our time here has been a most enjoyable experience and we shall miss the people we have met and made friends with.





This photograph was taken by a friend Sue Lewis.